No, Really, I've Been Productive!

I haven't been updating for the last month, due to a variety of factors, one of which being serious lack of motivation, considering that no one actually reads this blog. That and a lack of pictures with which to update - but I've at least been using my camera phone to take in progress shots, so I will put together some project posts soon.

For the 1830s project, I have:
-A pair of pockets, one of them artfully pieced, using directions from the WWG and looking at various examples - done but for needing twill tape to attach them, which I bought today
-A "bustle" of ruffled cotton jean, following directions in the WWG - done but for needing a tape threaded through the waist casing instead of cord, which I bought today
-A seashell-shaped velvet needlebook, imitating a red leather one in the OSV - done
-A black velvet pillow-shaped pincushion with a huge white organza ruffle, somewhat following directions in the WWG - done and perfectly ridiculous
-A floral striped cotton quilted petticoat imitating one in the OSV collection - partially constructed, with five rows of quilting done and lots more to go, then a waistband to attach.

Before the semester ends, I really want to make stays and a bodiced petticoat as well, because I'm hoping to make use of them this summer, as I will be interning at Old Sturbridge Village - YAY! Hopefully the costume department will be willing to let me wear my own undergarments. I doubt they issue corsets to the interpretation interns, and I really hate to wear period costume without them. In part, I admit, because the clothes are far less flatting without stays!

Times are very busy, so I'm not sure what I'll be able to complete on time, but even with only a few items done, I will still call the independent study a great success, and an amazing start on research that - let's face it - will lead to a book. I'll keep working on all of this, and will publish while I'm in grad school, or perhaps just after. I love that I'm getting to do real research on this level and with this combination of elements as, roughly, a third-year undergrad student. There's certainly something to be said for a Hampshire education.

So, that's the quick update, but there will be more soon, on the projects I've been working on (including a pattern for the pretty needlebook), the things I've bought, my research, and further plans. Oh, and on the ridiculous amounts of time I've spent scanning images from books onto my computer for a personal-use research database organized by item type - so when I go to, say, draft a pattern for a shift, I can look at ALL my examples of shifts and shift patterns and try to do the most appropriate things, while taking into account appealing stylistic variations.

Plans plans plans! And don't think I'll stop sewing just because the semester ends... ;)

Annotated Bibliography v2

Annotated Bibliography for 19th Century Sewing and Costume Research v2

Voila! An updated annotated bibliography! The 2nd version of it, that is. I will leave new web-published version intact, and post new versions as separate entries, with the same tag. New or updated items are indicated with exciting asterisks: ***. (How does one punctuate after a series of asterisks? Hm.) This updated version includes some new entries (though, alas, not yet all that I have on hand!), and several genuine annotations, mostly for books that are definitely not very helpful, or that I've had to return. My Inter-Library Loan books are coming due, and it's breaking my heart a little! As always, I would be delighted to receive feedback.

Within the next few weeks, a final-ish (when is research ever really final?!) version of the annotated bibliography as specific to 1830s research will be online, somewhat formalized and with full annotations for everything. That version will also contain online sources. Indeed, it will contain everything I've consulted or will consult for my 1830s women's clothing independent study, which has really turned quite epic.

Excerpted from the original introduction:

This semester, I am working on an academic independent study project entitled “Reproducing and Documenting 1830s Women's Clothing.” I am combining actual garment construction with academic research and writing, and one of the products of the project will be an annotated bibliography, with Chicago style citations, detailing the relevance, usefulness, and historical accuracy of the various sources, in my own experience and in the opinions of experts.

Since I study and reproduce other 19th century periods as well, and so many books have larger relevance, I decided to extend the bibliography project to include more of the 19th century, both earlier and later, though my personal interest lessens after the 1870s. I am putting this work-in-progress bibliography online so that it is available for use and comment by others, and will be updating it frequently.

I may possibly update the online version with links to dress diaries, articles, etc. that discuss the use of various sources, as these can be very useful for others interested in using those sources. I would probably limit those links to the most documented and historically accurate examples, because of the academic nature of the basis of this project.

(Though, for the record, I think that there are many perfectly acceptable reasons to stray from museum-quality reproductions, whether that straying is machine-sewing hidden seams, using man-made materials when natural fibers are unavailable, making a historically-inspired Halloween costume, or turning the past on its ear with steampunk or a twisted historical. On which note, someday I intend to reproduce the enormous ballgown Deborah Kerr wears in The King and I. 1860s? Not so much. But fabulous nevertheless!)

This bibliography is so far in its infancy. There are few actual annotations as yet, though certain aspects are noted in an organized fashion. Again, I will be updating it frequently in new entries, so bear with me. One thing of importance is that I am including books that may not actually be helpful or historically accurate, because I have them, ran across them, have heard about them, or found them in my library catalog. I think it is as useful to know which sources are not helpful as which are, but of course this is a matter of opinion. Additionally a book that is not useful to me may be quite useful to someone with a different aim. I welcome input and suggestions.

I would be glad to get input from anyone, the more specific and detailed the better, of course. I am especially interested in sources that I can use for my independent study, which is focusing on the late 1830s, the transitional years between the romantic era and the crinoline era. If anyone knows of a source that is useful for that time period, online or print, that is not listed here, I would love to know about it, and I would also love to get feedback specific to that period for the sources listed here.

For clarity's sake, I will explain the way these placeholder annotations are formatted. The bibliographic entries themselves are formatted Chicago style, since that is most commonly used in the social sciences, and because it makes me less cranky than do MLA or APA. Sometimes the style gets interpreted somewhat loosely, to try to incorporate information that seems necessary (for instance, to clarify which edition of the “Kyoto Book” [see entry under Fukai, Akiko] I am using), and some of these variations will likely shift over time. The citation format and my annotation notes are structured as follows:

Lastname, Firstname. Title of book. Place of publication: Publisher, Year of publication.

-Original publication date, if any. 'In my collection', or call number and library borrowed from.

-Instructional or not. Images or not, color or not. Academic or not; source's field or intent.

-Recommended by anyone? Feedback, reputation, usefulness, authenticity.

-Is there a bibliography, recommended reading list, or list of sources?

-Is the source possibly relevant to the 1830s? These will be pulled for my project.

And without further ado, here is the ***updated*** bibliography!

Arnold, Janet. Patterns of Fashion 1: Englishwomen's dresses and their construction c. 1660-1860. New York: Drama Book Specialists/Publishers, 1978.

-Originally published 1964. In my collection.

-Instructional with diagrams. B&W images. Theatrical/historical costuming.

-Recommended by everyone.

-Bibliography of primary and secondary sources.

-Relevant to 1830s project.

Arnold, Janet. Patterns of Fashion 2: Englishwomen's dresses and their construction c. 1860-1940. New York: Drama Book Publishers, 1993.

-Originally published 1966. In my collection.

-Instructional with diagrams. B&W images. Theatrical/historical costuming.

-Recommended by everyone.

-Bibliography of primary sources.

Bassett, Lynne Zacek. Textiles for Regency Clothing 1800-1850: A Workbook of Swatches and Information. Formerly titled Textiles for Clothing of the Early Republic. Arlington, Virginia: Q Graphics Production Company, Product division of Sally Queen & Associates, 2001.

-In my collection.

-Not instructional. Contains swatches of actual fabric. Textile history.

-Recommended but expensive.

-Bibliography and list of suppliers for textiles.

-Relevant to 1830s project.

Beaudoin-Ross, Jacqueline. Form and Fashion: Nineteenth Century Montreal Dress (Formes et modes: Le costume à Montréal au XIXͤ siècle). Montreal: McCord Museum of Canadian History, 1992.

-In my collection. Available from the museum for $15 CAN.

-Not instructional. Full color images and B&W. Museum collection of extant garments.

-Recommended by anyone? I don't think so. Beautiful and inexpensive.

-Bibliography.

-Relevant to 1830s project.

Bradfield, Nancy. Costume in Detail: Women's Dress 1730-1930. Hollywood: Costume & Fashion Press, 2009.

-Originally published 1968. In my collection.

-Not instructional, but drawings have measurements & detail. B&W images. History of costume.

-Recommended by many. Some overlap with Arnold.

-Books consulted list.

-Relevant to 1830s project.

***Brown, William L. Thoughts on Men's Shirts in America 1750-1900. With pattern drawings by Andrew Chamberlain. Gettysburg, Pennsylvania: Thomas Publications, 1999.

-Borrowed via Inter-Library Loan from Bowdoin College.

-Instructional. B&W images. Historical costume reproduction, museum oriented.

-Recommended on The Sewing Academy forum.

-Bibliography.

-Relevant to 1830s project.

-This is a beautifully researched and carefully organized book containing a wealth of information on men's shirts, as well as a section on “Smocks, Frocks, and Over Shirts” and brief coverage on nightshirts. It contains an Introduction that describes the author's interest in the topic and his intentions with the book, excellent overview information covering the evolution of the shirt over the period in question with close-up construction photographs of extant garments, period art and photographs, and detailed information on 19 extant shirts, with photographs and construction line drawings as well as thorough but concise written information. In addition to the 19 shirts, there is also an over shirt and two nightshirts briefly depicted, again with construction information. Helpfully, the book references a variety of other sources and museum collections, including The Workwoman's Guide, which specifically discusses styles like three of the designs given in the book: Shirt #9, c. 1790-1815 (p. 55, see also The Workwoman's Guide: “Another Gentleman's Front,” p. 144 and pl. 18, fig. 6); Shirt #10, c. 1815-1840 (p. 59, see also The Workwoman's Guide: “A Gentleman's Shirt,” p. 143 and pl. 18, fig. 5); and Shirt #12, c. 1825-1845 (p. 70, see also The Workwoman's Guide; though Brown does not specify which design most closely resembles this, he states that “The maker of this shirt could have used instructions from The Workwoman's Guide, for it fits the description to a 'T' including separate collars and extra false fronts”). One useful aspect of this book is its connection of techniques in The Workwoman's Guide to actual garments. For making or studying men's shirts of the broad period covered, this is a wonderful resource, though one rarely available in libraries. Because it is oriented toward living history and museums and written by a trained curator, it takes an approach that is both scholarly and practical. It is not terribly relevant for women's clothing, but could be helpful in showing construction techniques, and potentially also for constructing a woman's nightshirt, which would share some of the characteristics of men's shirts. This is an instructional book. Images are black and white. It is relatively scholarly but also practical. It was recommended on The Sewing Academy forum. There is a bibliography.

-I scanned pages from this book for personal reference, including the Contents, the Introduction, the three shirt designs that reference The Workwoman's Guide, the Bibliography, and the Glossary.

***Buck, Anne. Victorian Costume: And Costume Accessories. Revised 2^nd ed. Carlton, England: Ruth Bean, 1984.

-Originally published London: Herbert Jenkins, 1961.

-GT 737 B78 1984, borrowed from Five College library, UMass Amherst.

-Not instructional but has some construction photographs. Many B&W images. History of costume.

-Recommended by anyone? In most older book bibliographies.

-Bibliography.

-Relevant to 1830s project.

-This is one of the definitive mid-twentieth century works on costume, written by a well-respected museum curator and widely cited in other books on costume. Like other books of the period, its images are black and white, and tend to be small. The topic is fairly large for a relatively small book, and many remarks and generalizations about changes in fashion are made without any specific citations. The organization is somewhat confusing, and the book is lacking in much information or imagery for the earliest portion of the Victorian period. For researching the 1830s, this is not really a useful source, but as a general overview of Victorian fashion, particularly high fashion, this book remains a decent resource, and contains a good balance of images: period paintings, period photographs, period magazine and newspaper illustrations, and photographs of extant garments and textiles, including some where antique garments are actually photographed on models. The book is not instructional but contains some construction-oriented photographs of extant garments that are potentially useful, specifically a bodice from 1841-43, a bodice from 1882-83, and the matching skirt from 1882-83. There is a bibliography.

-I scanned the frontispiece and copyright information from this book, as well as several pages of images, for personal reference. Page 68, image 12: “Bodice construction, 1841-3.” Page 115, image 24: “Bonnets, 1835-58.” Page 144, image 27: “Satin shoes, 1835-50” and image 28: “Satin wedding boots, 1865.” Page 151, image 131: “Bags, 1835-50.” Page 163, image 35: “Fan and mittens, 1835-50.”

***Carnahan, Ruby. How To Make Hats: Easy Step By Step Instructions. Chicago: Carnahan Associates, 1966.

-TT 655 C3 1966, borrowed from Five College library, Smith College.

-Instructional; includes patterns. Black and white images. How-to personal fashion, vintage.

-Recommended by anyone? No.

-No bibliography.

-Relevant to 1830s project.

-This is an instructional book intended for home sewists and women interested in doing small scale millinery for others. The equipment, patterns, and instructions are contemporary to the 1966 publication date. The many patterns, detailed instructions, and thorough step-by-step illustrations seem very helpful for vintage-style hatmaking, even for earlier decades. However, this does not seem like a useful resource for 19^th century costume research. This is an instructional book. The images are black and white, primarily drawn, but some seem to be photographs. No one specifically recommended this book to me; I looked at it because it was available through the Five College library system. It does not have a bibliography.

***Carter, Alison. Underwear: The Fashion History. New York: Drama Book Publishers, 1992.

-GT 2073 C37 1992, borrowed from Five College library, Amherst College.

-Not instructional. B&W images with a color section. History of costume, sensational.

-Recommended by anyone? In a bibliography.

-Bibliography.

-Relevant to 1830s project. Also useful for 20^th century vintage sewing.

***Crill, Rosemary, Jennifer Weardon and Verity Wilson. Dress in Detail from Around the World. London: V&A Publications, 2002.

-GT 2050 .D74 2002, borrowed from Five College library, Hampshire College.

-Not instructional. Full color images. Museum collection of extant garments: non-Western.

-Recommended by anyone? No. Only useful for non-Western costumes.

-Further Reading list.

-Like other recent publications from the Victoria and Albert Museum, this book is extremely beautiful, but it has entirely non-Western content. This makes it extremely useful for other projects, particularly Asian projects, so it could be very useful to someone creating an immigrant's costume or simply 19^th century costume from another part of the world, but for mainstream European and American 19^th century dress, it is not a relevant resource. Like the other “in Detail” books, it contains large, full color photographs, usually in extreme-closeup, with full schematic drawings of each garment, along with detailed descriptions tying each garment to a larger trend, inspiration, material, or concept. Many garments are not photographed in full, though some have additional pictures available on the V&A website, which are easily found as the book's garments are listed by item number. This is not an instructional book. It contains full color images as well as schematic line drawings. No one specifically recommended this book to me, but the series is highly regarded by historical costumers. It does not include a bibliography, but has a “Further Reading” list.

***Cunnington, C. Willett and Phillis Cunnington. The History of Underclothes. Mineola, New York: Dover Publications, Inc., 1992.

-Originally published London: Michael Joseph Ltd, 1951.

-GT 2073 C8 1992, borrowed from Five College library, UMass Amherst.

-Not instructional, but with images useful for construction. B&W images. History of costume.

-Recommended by anyone? As a basic overview with some dated information, yes.

-Brief bibliography of primary and secondary sources.

-Relevant to 1830s project.

***Davidson, Caroline. Women's Worlds: The Art and Life of Mary Ellen Best 1809-1891. With a foreword by Howard Rutkowski. New York: Crown Publishers, Inc., 1985

-ND 1942 B39 D39 1985 Folio, borrowed from Five College library, Mount Holyoke.

-Not instructional. Many color photographs of paintings. Art history, biography.

-Recommended by someone. Need to check.

-Bibliography, related to art and this artist.

-Relevant to 1830s project in particular.

Dial, Tim. Basic Millinery for the Stage. Portsmouth, New Hampshire: Heinemann, 2002.

-PN 2067 D53 2002, borrowed from Five College library, Smith College.

-Instructional. Black and white images. Theatrical costuming.

-Recommended by anyone? I don't think so.

-Brief bibliography.

-Relevant to 1830s project.

Dreher, Denise. From the Neck Up: An Illustrated Guide to Hatmaking. Minneapolis: Madhatter Press, 1981.

-TT 655 C3 1966, borrowed from Five College library, Mount Holyoke College.

-Instructional; includes patterns. Black and white images. Theatrical costuming.

-Recommended by various. Not sure of historical accuracy.

-Extensive bibliography.

-Relevant to 1830s project.

Earnshaw, Pat. The Identification of Lace. Buckinghamshire, UK: Shire Publications Ltd, 2000.

-Originally published 1980. In my collection.

-Not instructional. B&W images. Textile history and design.

-Recommended by anyone? Not that I recall. More about lace types than times.

-Bibliography.

-Relevant to 1830s project.

***Ewing, Elizabeth. Everyday Dress 1650-1900. London: B. T. Batsford Ltd., 1984.

-GT 733 E84 1984, borrowed from Five College library, UMass Amherst.

-Not instructional. B&W images. History of costume.

-Recommended by anyone? Not that I recall. Excellent collection of images, various types.

-Select bibliography.

-Relevant to 1830s project.

Fukai, Akiko, Ed. Fashion: A History from the 18^th to the 20^th Century (The Collection of the Kyoto Costume Institute). 2006 edition published by Barnes & Noble by arrangement. Köln: Taschen, 2006.

-Orig. pub. 2002. GT 580 .F36 2006, borrowed from Five College library, Hampshire College.

-Not instructional. Full color images. Museum collection of extant garments.
-Recommended by everyone.

-Bibliography.

-Relevant to 1830s project.

***Grimble, Frances, Ralph Grimble, Helen Grimble, Elisabeth Celnart, and Burtel. The Lady's Stratagem: A Repository of 1820s Directions for the Toilet, Mantua-Making, Stay-Making, Millinery & Etiquette. San Francisco, CA: Lavolta Press, 2009.

-Contains six French instructional manuals originally published in the 1820s, one in the 1830s.

-Instructional. Some B&W white. Expert translation and reworking of period texts, with additions.

-Recommended by anyone? I should think so, but I'm not sure who.

-Bibliography and Further Reading list, as well as Glossary and Index.

-Relevant to 1830s project.

Harris, Beth, Ed. Famine and Fashion: Needlewomen in the Nineteenth Century. Aldershot, England: Ashgate Publishing Limited, 2005.

-HD 6073 C6 H37 2005, borrowed from Five College library, Smith College.

-Not instructional. Black and white images. Academic: labor history.

-Recommended by anyone? No, but I emailed Laurie Nisonoff about it.

-Select bibliography and notes.

-Relevant to 1830s project.

Hedlund, Catherine A. A Primer of New England Crewel Embroidery. 5^th ed. Old Sturbridge Village Booklet Series. Sturbridge, Massachusetts: Old Sturbridge Village, 1973.

-TT 771 H25 1973, borrowed from Five College library, UMass Amherst.

-Instructional. Black and white images. Non-academic.

-Recommended by anyone? No.

-No bibliography, but has list of titles in booklet series.

-Relevant to 1830s project.

Hunnisett, Jean. Period Costumes for Stage & Screen: Patterns for Women's Dress 1800-1909. London: Unwin Paperbacks, 1988.

-PN 2067 H862, borrowed from Five College library, UMass Amherst.

-Instructional with diagrams. B&W images. Theatrical costuming.

-Recommended by many, with reservations.

-Bibliography.

-Relevant to 1830s project.

Hunnisett, Jean. Period Costumes for Stage & Screen: Patterns for Outer Garments, Book II: Dominos, Dolmans, Coats, Pelisses, Spencers, Calashes, Hoods and Bonnets. Studio City, California: Players Press, Inc., 2003.

-TT 530 .H8 2000 v.2, borrowed from Five College library, Hampshire College

-Instructional with diagrams. B&W images. Theatrical costuming.

-Recommended by many, with reservations.

-Bibliography.

-Relevant to 1830s project.

Ingham, Rosemary and Liz Covey. The Costume Technician's Handbook: A Complete Guide for Amateur and Professional Costume Technicians (Completely Revised and Updated Edition of the Costumer's Handbook). Portsmouth, New Hampshire: Heinemann Educational Books, Inc., 1992.

-Originally published 1980 but completely updated. In my collection.

-Instructional. B&W images with color section. Theatrical costuming overview.

-Recommended by some for generally good, though not historical, information.

-No bibliography, but does make reference to historical diagram books.

-Relevant to 1830s project.

Johnston, Lucy. Nineteenth Century Fashion in Detail. London: V&A Publishing, 2009.

-Originally published 2005. In my collection.

-Not instructional. Full color images. Museum collection of extant garments.

-Recommended by many. Note: some garments only have detail shots, not full.

-Further reading list.

-Relevant to 1830s.

Joslin, Katherine. Edith Wharton and the Making of Fashion. Becoming Modern: New Nineteenth Century Studies; Reading Dress Series. Durham, New Hampshire: University of New Hampshire Press, 2009.

-PS 3545 .H16 Z6855 2009, borrowed from Five College library, Smith College

-Not instructional. Black and white images. Academic: literature.

-NOT recommended by Clare M. Sauro on Worn Through: poorly sourced, disappointing:

-http://www.wornthrough.com/2010/02/17/book-review-edith-wharton-the-making-of-fashion/

-Bibliography mostly literary, has list of image websites.

Lady, A. The Workwoman's Guide: A Guide to 19^th Century Decorative Arts, Fashion and Practical Crafts (A Facsimile Reproduction of the Original 1838 Edition). Guilford, Connecticut: Opus Publications with Old Sturbridge Village, 1986.

-Orig. pub. 1838. TT 705 .L27 1986, borrowed from Five College library, Hampshire College.

-Also available digitally: http://books.google.com/books?id=JCsBAAAAQAAJ&dq=workwoman's%20guide&pg=PP1#v=onepage&q&f=false

-Instructional with diagrams, period. B&W images. Period home sewing and craft manual.

-Recommended by everyone.

-No bibliography.

-Relevant to 1830s project.

***Miller, Marla R. The Needle's Eye: Women and Work in the Age of Revolution. Amherst, Massachusetts: University of Massachusetts Press, 2006.

-HD 6096 .H33 M55 2006, borrowed from Five College library, Amherst College.

-Not instructional. Some B&W images and 8 color plates. Academic: women's history, labor.

-Recommended on The Sewing Academy. By a UMass professor of public history. Promising.

-Extensive endnotes but no generalized bibliography.

-Relevant to 1830s project.

Olian, JoAnne, Ed. 80 Godey's Full-Color Fashion Plates: 1838-1880. Mineola, New York: Dover Publications, Inc., 1998.

-In my collection.

-Not instructional. Color images. Historical costuming, fashion plates.

-Recommended by me for overview of high fashion changes.

-No bibliography.

-Relevant to 1830s project.

Razek, Rula. Dress Codes: Reading Nineteenth Century Fashion. Stanford Honors Essay in Humanities Number XLIII. Stanford, California: Humanities Honors Program, Stanford University, 1999.

-GT 595 R39 1999, borrowed from Five College library, Smith College.

-Not instructional. No images. Academic: fashion theory.

-Recommended by anyone? No.

-Bibliography and notes, extensive.

-Relevant to 1830s project.

Rothstein, Natalie, Ed. Four Hundred Years of Fashion. London: Victoria and Albert Museum in association with William Collins, 1984.

-In my collection.

-Not instructional. B&W and color images, limited. Museum collection of extant garments.

-Not highly recommended because of limited images, but often inexpensive.

-No bibliography.

-Relevant to 1830s project.

Salen, Jill. Corsets: Historical Patterns and Techniques. Hollywood: Costume & Fashion Press, 2008.

-GT 2075 .S25 2008, borrowed from Five College library, Mount Holyoke College

-Instructional with diagrams. B&W and color images. Historical costuming.

-Recommended by various.

-Further reading list and list of suppliers.

-Relevant to 1830s project.

***Staniland, Kay. In Royal Fashion: The Clothes of Princess Charlotte of Wales & Queen Victoria 1796-1901. London: Museum of London, 1997.

-Borrowed via Inter-Library Loan from Savannah College of Art and Design.

-Not instructional. Primarily color images with some original B&W images. History of costume.

-Not sure if it was recommended by someone specifically.

-Contains a Select Bibliography, Endnotes, and three appendices reproducing primary documents.

-Published by the Museum of London, this beautiful book contains excellent royal history along with wonderful clothes. It explores the wardrobes of Queen Victoria, her mother Princess Charlotte, and their contemporaries, exploring the ways in which royal fashion and royal lives (and deaths) affected other people. The text uses a mixture of extant garments and items (some known to have belonged to royal persons), portraiture, photographs, and period drawings and engravings (including satirical cartoons), with many full-page, full-color plates. Organized chronologically, it examines changing fashions and moods, linking the two very effectively. Altogether a beautiful, well-researched, and highly readable book that offers a tantalizing peek into the garments and material life of Queen Victoria and Princess Charlotte, as well as their families, to a lesser degree, effectively covering the period stated in the title, 1796-1901. There are a few particularly nice examples of late 1830s items which I found quite useful for my study. It is not instructional. It has many full-color images. I do not recall if it was specifically recommended by anyone. As a publication by a respected museum in Britain, I feel confident that is a trustworthy resource. It contains a Select Bibliography, Endnotes, and three appendices reproducing primary documents.

-I scanned several plates from the book for my personal reference.

Steele, Valerie. The Corset: A Cultural History. New Haven, Connecticut: Yale University Press, 2001.

-GT 2075 .S74 2001, borrowed from Five College library, Hampshire College.

-Not instructional, has some period diagrams. B&W and color images. Academic: fashion theory.

-Recommended by anyone? Yes, but need to check. Also, I recommend it.

-Extensive notes and bibliography.

-Relevant to 1830s project.

***Summers, Leigh. Bound to Please: A History of the Victorian Corset. Oxford: Berg, 2001.

-GT 2075 .S85 2001, borrowed from Five College library, Amherst College.

-Not instructional. B&W images. Academic: women's history.

-Recommended by anyone? I'm not sure, but I think it was listed in Steele's bibliography.

-Extensive notes and bibliography.

-Relevant to 1830s project.

-Have not yet read it, but it seems rather cranky. Back of book: “The author reveals how 'steels and bones', which damaged bodies and undermined mental health, were a crucial element in constructing middle-class women as psychologically submissive subjects.” I do not find this particular, widely held viewpoint convincing and much prefer Steele's approach.

Trestain, Eileen Jahnke. Dating Fabrics: A Color Guide 1800-1960. Paducah, Kentucky: American Quilter's Society, 1998.

-In my collection.

-Not instructional. Full color images of textile samples. Textile history: patterns, esp cotton.

-Recommended by many.

-Bibliography.

-Relevant to 1830s project.

Wardrop, Daneen. Emily Dickinson and the Labor of Clothing. Becoming Modern: New Nineteenth Century Studies; Reading Dress Series. Durham, New Hampshire: University of New Hampshire Press, 2009.

-PS 1541 .Z5 W315 2009, borrowed from Five College library, Smith College.

-Not instructional. Black and white images with color section. Academic: literature.

-Recommended by anyone? Emily Dickinson Museum is hosting a presentation of it.

-Bibliography.

-Relevant to 1830s project.

Waugh, Norah. Corsets and Crinolines. New York: Theatre Arts Books, 1970.

-Orig. pub. 1954. GT 2075 W3 1970 Folio, borrowed from Five College library, Mount Holyoke.

-Instructional with diagrams, period and modern. B&W images. Theatrical costuming.

-Recommended by many.

-No bibliography.

-Relevant to 1830s project.

Waugh, Norah. The Cut of Women's Clothes 1600-1930. New York: Theatre Arts Books, 1968.

-Orig. pub. 1968. TT 504 .W385 1968, borrowed from Five College library, Hampshire College.

-Instructional, with diagrams. Black and white images. Theatrical costuming.

-Recommended by many.

-Limited bibliography.

-Relevant to 1830s project.