Annotated Bibliography for 19th Century Costume Research

As previously discussed, this semester, I am working on an academic independent study project entitled “Reproducing and Documenting 1830s Women's Clothing.” I am combining actual garment construction with academic research and writing, and one of the products of the project will be an annotated bibliography, with Chicago style citations, detailing the relevance, usefulness, and historical accuracy of the various sources, in my own experience and in the opinions of experts.

Since I study and reproduce other 19th century periods as well, and so many books have larger relevance, I decided to extend the bibliography project to include more of the 19th century, both earlier and later, though my personal interest lessens after the 1870s. I am putting this work-in-progress bibliography online so that it is available for use and comment by others, and will be updating it frequently.

I may possibly update the online version with links to dress diaries, articles, etc. that discuss the use of various sources, as these can be very useful for others interested in using those sources. I would probably limit those links to the most documented and historically accurate examples, because of the academic nature of the basis of this project.

(Though, for the record, I think that there are many perfectly acceptable reasons to stray from museum-quality reproductions, whether that straying is machine-sewing hidden seams, using man-made materials when natural fibers are unavailable, making a historically-inspired Halloween costume, or turning the past on its ear with steampunk or a twisted historical. On which note, someday I intend to reproduce the enormous ballgown Deborah Kerr wears in The King and I. 1860s? Not so much. But fabulous nevertheless!)

This bibliography is so far in its infancy. There are no actual annotations yet, though certain aspects are noted in an organized fashion. Again, I will be updating it frequently, so bear with me. One thing of importance is that I am including books that may not actually be helpful or historically accurate, because I have them, ran across them, have heard about them, or found them in my library catalog. I think it is as useful to know which sources are not helpful as which are, but of course this is a matter of opinion. Additionally a book that is not useful to me may be quite useful to someone with a different aim. I welcome input and suggestions.

Currently, the bibliography includes the enormous pile of library books I am currently in possession of, as well as some of the costume and sewing books in my personal collection, but I have not yet included most of my own books, so the list is extremely incomplete. For instance, I have not even touched by crinoline era specific books, or costume history overview texts.

I would be glad to get input from anyone, the more specific and detailed the better, of course. I am especially interested in sources that I can use for my independent study, which is focusing on the late 1830s, the transitional years between the romantic era and the crinoline era. If anyone knows of a source that is useful for that time period, online or print, that is not listed here, I would love to know about it, and I would also love to get feedback specific to that period for the sources listed here.

For clarity's sake, I will explain the way these placeholder annotations are formatted. The bibliographic entries themselves are formatted Chicago style, since that is most commonly used in the social sciences, and because it makes me less cranky than do MLA or APA. Sometimes the style gets interpreted somewhat loosely, to try to incorporate information that seems necessary (for instance, to clarify which edition of the “Kyoto Book” [see entry under Fukai, Akiko] I am using), and some of these variations will likely shift over time. The citation format and my annotation notes are structured as follows:

Lastname, Firstname. Title of book. Place of publication: Publisher, Year of publication.
-Original publication date, if any. 'In my collection', or call number and library borrowed from.
-Instructional or not. Images or not, color or not. Academic or not; source's field or intent.
-Recommended by anyone? Feedback, reputation, usefulness, authenticity.
-Is there a bibliography, recommended reading list, or list of sources?
-Is the source possibly relevant to the 1830s? These will be pulled for my project.

And without further ado, here is the bibliography, such as it is:



Arnold, Janet. Patterns of Fashion 1: Englishwomen's dresses and their construction c. 1660-1860. New York: Drama Book Specialists/Publishers, 1978.
-Originally published 1964. In my collection.
-Instructional with diagrams. B&W images. Theatrical/historical costuming.
-Recommended by everyone.
-Bibliography of primary and secondary sources.
-Relevant to 1830s project.

Arnold, Janet. Patterns of Fashion 2: Englishwomen's dresses and their construction c. 1860-1940. New York: Drama Book Publishers, 1993.
-Originally published 1966. In my collection.
-Instructional with diagrams. B&W images. Theatrical/historical costuming.
-Recommended by everyone.
-Bibliography of primary sources.

Bassett, Lynne Zacek. Textiles for Regency Clothing 1800-1850: A Workbook of Swatches and Information. Formerly titled Textiles for Clothing of the Early Republic. Arlington, Virginia: Q Graphics Production Company, Product division of Sally Queen & Associates, 2001.
-In my collection.
-Not instructional. Contains swatches of actual fabric. Textile history.
-Recommended but expensive.
-Bibliography and list of suppliers for textiles.
-Relevant to 1830s project.

Beaudoin-Ross, Jacqueline. Form and Fashion: Nineteenth Century Montreal Dress (Formes et modes: Le costume à Montréal au XIXͤ siècle). Montreal: McCord Museum of Canadian History, 1992.
-In my collection. Available from the museum for $15 CAN.
-Not instructional. Full color images and B&W. Museum collection of extant garments.
-Recommended by anyone? I don't think so. Beautiful and inexpensive.
-Bibliography.
-Relevant to 1830s project.

Bradfield, Nancy. Costume in Detail: Women's Dress 1730-1930. Hollywood: Costume & Fashion Press, 2009.
-Originally published 1968. In my collection.
-Not instructional, but drawings have measurements & detail. B&W images. Historical costume.
-Recommended by many. Some overlap with Arnold.
-Books consulted list.
-Relevant to 1830s project.

Carnahan, Ruby. How To Make Hats: Easy Step By Step Instructions. Chicago: Carnahan Associates, 1966.
-TT 655 C3 1966, borrowed from Five College library, Smith College.
-Instructional; includes patterns. Black and white images. How-to personal fashion, vintage.
-Recommended by anyone? No.
-No bibliography.
-Relevant to 1830s project.

Crill, Rosemary, Jennifer Weardon and Verity Wilson. Dress in Detail from Around the World. London: V&A Publications, 2002.
-GT 2050 .D74 2002, borrowed from Five College library, Hampshire College.
-Not instructional. Full color images. Museum collection of extant garments: non-Western.
-Recommended by anyone? No. Only useful for non-Western costumes.
-Further Reading list project.

Dial, Tim. Basic Millinery for the Stage. Portsmouth, New Hampshire: Heinemann, 2002.
-PN 2067 D53 2002, borrowed from Five College library, Smith College.
-Instructional. Black and white images. Theatrical costuming.
-Recommended by anyone? I don't think so.
-Brief bibliography.
-Relevant to 1830s project.

Dreher, Denise. From the Neck Up: An Illustrated Guide to Hatmaking. Minneapolis: Madhatter Press, 1981.
-TT 655 C3 1966, borrowed from Five College library, Mount Holyoke College.
-Instructional; includes patterns. Black and white images. Theatrical costuming.
-Recommended by various. Not sure of historical accuracy.
-Extensive bibliography.
-Relevant to 1830s project.

Earnshaw, Pat. The Identification of Lace. Buckinghamshire, UK: Shire Publications Ltd, 2000.
Originally published 1980. In my collection.
-Not instructional. B&W images. Textile history and design.
-Recommended by anyone? Not that I recall. More about lace types than times.
-Bibliography.
-Relevant to 1830s project.

Fukai, Akiko, Ed. Fashion: A History from the 18th to the 20th Century (The Collection of the Kyoto Costume Institute). 2006 edition published by Barnes & Noble by arrangement. Köln: Taschen, 2006.
-Orig. pub. 2002. GT 580 .F36 2006, borrowed from Five College library, Hampshire College.
-Not instructional. Full color images. Museum collection of extant garments.
-Recommended by everyone.
-Bibliography.
-Relevant to 1830s project.

Harris, Beth, Ed. Famine and Fashion: Needlewomen in the Nineteenth Century. Aldershot, England: Ashgate Publishing Limited, 2005.
-HD 6073 C6 H37 2005, borrowed from Five College library, Smith College.
-Not instructional. Black and white images. Academic: labor history.
-Recommended by anyone? No, but I emailed Laurie Nisonoff about it.
-Select bibliography and notes.
-Relevant to 1830s project.

Hedlund, Catherine A. A Primer of New England Crewel Embroidery. 5th ed. Old Sturbridge Village Booklet Series. Sturbridge, Massachusetts: Old Sturbridge Village, 1973.
-TT 771 H25 1973, borrowed from Five College library, UMass Amherst.
-Instructional. Black and white images. Non-academic.
-Recommended by anyone? No.
-No bibliography, but has list of titles in booklet series.
-Relevant to 1830s project.

Hunnisett, Jean. Period Costumes for Stage & Screen: Patterns for Women's Dress 1800-1909. London: Unwin Paperbacks, 1988.
-PN 2067 H862, borrowed from Five College library, UMass Amherst.
-Instructional with diagrams. B&W images. Theatrical costuming.
-Recommended by many, with reservations.
-Bibliography.
-Relevant to 1830s project.

Hunnisett, Jean. Period Costumes for Stage & Screen: Patterns for Outer Garments, Book II: Dominos, Dolmans, Coats, Pelisses, Spencers, Calashes, Hoods and Bonnets. Studio City, California: Players Press, Inc., 2003.
-TT 530 .H8 2000 v.2, borrowed from Five College library, Hampshire College
-Instructional with diagrams. B&W images. Theatrical costuming.
-Recommended by many, with reservations.
-Bibliography.
-Relevant to 1830s project.

Ingham, Rosemary and Liz Covey. The Costume Technician's Handbook: A Complete Guide for Amateur and Professional Costume Technicians (Completely Revised and Updated Edition of the Costumer's Handbook). Portsmouth, New Hampshire: Heinemann Educational Books, Inc., 1992.
-Originally published 1980 but completely updated. In my collection.
-Instructional. B&W images with color section. Theatrical costuming overview.
-Recommended by some for generally good, though not historical, information.
-No bibliography, but does make reference to historical diagram books.
-Relevant to 1830s project.

Johnston, Lucy. Nineteenth Century Fashion in Detail. London: V&A Publishing, 2009.
-Originally published 2005. In my collection.
-Not instructional. Full color images. Museum collection of extant garments.
-Recommended by many. Note: some garments only have detail shots, not full.
-Further reading list.
-Relevant to 1830s.

Joslin, Katherine. Edith Wharton and the Making of Fashion. Becoming Modern: New Nineteenth Century Studies; Reading Dress Series. Durham, New Hampshire: University of New Hampshire Press, 2009.
-PS 3545 .H16 Z6855 2009, borrowed from Five College library, Smith College
-Not instructional. Black and white images. Academic: literature.
-NOT recommended by Clare M. Sauro on Worn Through: poorly sourced, disappointing
-Bibliography mostly literary, has list of image websites.

Lady, A. The Workwoman's Guide: A Guide to 19th Century Decorative Arts, Fashion and Practical Crafts (A Facsimile Reproduction of the Original 1838 Edition). Guilford, Connecticut: Opus Publications with Old Sturbridge Village, 1986.
-Orig. pub. 1838. TT 705 .L27 1986, borrowed from Five College library, Hampshire College.
-Instructional with diagrams, period. B&W images. Period home sewing and craft manual.
-Recommended by everyone.
-No bibliography.
-Relevant to 1830s project.

Olian, JoAnne, Ed. 80 Godey's Full-Color Fashion Plates: 1838-1880. Mineola, New York: Dover Publications, Inc., 1998.
-In my collection.
-Not instructional. Color images. Historical costuming, fashion plates.
-Recommended by me for overview of high fashion changes.
-No bibliography.
-Relevant to 1830s project.

Razek, Rula. Dress Codes: Reading Nineteenth Century Fashion. Stanford Honors Essay in Humanities Number XLIII. Stanford, California: Humanities Honors Program, Stanford University, 1999.
-GT 595 R39 1999, borrowed from Five College library, Smith College.
-Not instructional. No images. Academic: fashion theory.
-Recommended by anyone? No.
-Bibliography and notes, extensive.
-Relevant to 1830s project.

Rothstein, Natalie, Ed. Four Hundred Years of Fashion. London: Victoria and Albert Museum in association with William Collins, 1984.
-In my collection.
-Not instructional. B&W and color images, limited. Museum collection of extant garments.
-Not highly recommended because of limited images, but often inexpensive.
-No bibliography.
-Relevant to 1830s project.

Salen, Jill. Corsets: Historical Patterns and Techniques. Hollywood: Costume & Fashion Press, 2008.
-GT 2075 .S25 2008, borrowed from Five College library, Mount Holyoke College
-Instructional with diagrams. B&W and color images. Historical costuming.
-Recommended by various.
-Further reading list and list of suppliers.
-Relevant to 1830s project.

Steele, Valerie. The Corset: A Cultural History. New Haven, Connecticut: Yale University Press, 2001.
-GT 2075 .S74 2001, borrowed from Five College library, Hampshire College.
-Not instructional, has some period diagrams. B&W and color images. Academic: fashion theory.
-Recommended by anyone? I don't think so, but I love her perspective in the introduction.
-Extensive notes and bibliography.
-Relevant to 1830s project.

Trestain, Eileen Jahnke. Dating Fabrics: A Color Guide 1800-1960. Paducah, Kentucky: American Quilter's Society, 1998.
-In my collection.
-Not instructional. Full color images of textile samples. Textile history: patterns, esp cotton.
-Recommended by many.
-Bibliography.
-Relevant to 1830s project.

Wardrop, Daneen. Emily Dickinson and the Labor of Clothing. Becoming Modern: New Nineteenth Century Studies; Reading Dress Series. Durham, New Hampshire: University of New Hampshire Press, 2009.
-PS 1541 .Z5 W315 2009, borrowed from Five College library, Smith College.
-Not instructional. Black and white images with color section. Academic: literature.
-Recommended by anyone? Emily Dickinson Museum is hosting a presentation of it.
-Bibliography.
-Relevant to 1830s project.

Waugh, Norah. Corsets and Crinolines. New York: Theatre Arts Books, 1970.
-Orig. pub. 1954. GT 2075 W3 1970 Folio, borrowed from Five College library, Mount Holyoke.
-Instructional with diagrams, period and modern. B&W images. Theatrical costuming.
-Recommended by many.
-No bibliography.
-Relevant to 1830s project.

Waugh, Norah. The Cut of Women's Clothes 1600-1930. New York: Theatre Arts Books, 1968.
-Orig. pub. 1968. TT 504 .W385 1968, borrowed from Five College library, Hampshire College.
-Instructional, with diagrams. Black and white images. Theatrical costuming.
-Recommended by many.
-Limited bibliography.
-Relevant to 1830s project.